Writing about Thanksgiving food is like redrawing the Kama Sutra when readers really only care about the missionary position.
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As a food writer, I should never admit this, but I really hate Thanksgiving. Not the day, not the food, not the cooking or the shopping, not even the sappy reason Americans ostensibly gather to gorge in late November. What makes me totally crazy is the persistent pressure to reinvent a wheel that has been going around quite nicely for more than 200 years.
The first recipe story I ever sold, 25 years ago, was pegged to Thanksgiving—a piece on ways to use cranberries besides the inevitable sauce, as if anyone would want them anywhere near steak or salad or anything but turkey. And it’s been downhill ever since. I’ve done a healthful Thanksgiving, budget Thanksgiving, lavish Thanksgiving, ethnic Thanksgiving , even the “real” first Thanksgiving .
We whip ourselves into a lather trying to make Thanksgiving trendy, but no one really wants to mess with the hoariest menu. In a country that worships sickening candied yams under marshmallows, I know that almost no one will try something like sweet potatoes Anna—a gratin of thin slices layered with thyme, Aleppo pepper, and lots of butter.
I guess I’m a total hypocrite, though, because I do the work I’m assigned each year and then get up on Thanksgiving morning and ignore everything I wrote. I make my stuffing as usual, roast my turkey as always, whisk up the same pan gravy, peel and mash potatoes, don’t get fancy with the cranberry sauce, and cook whatever green vegetable looks best at the farmers’ market. If I have time this year I’ll make pumpkin-thyme dinner rolls and the sweet potato-pecan pie I have baked 20 times before.
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