Only 17% of the mānuka honey that makes it onto store shelves is authentic:
Skin-care enthusiasts — myself included — tend toward hyperbole. Every new, mildy buzzworthy ingredient gets hailed as "a miracle cream!" or "my Holy Grail!" or "liquid gold!" In the case of mānuka honey, though, the buzz is real and "liquid gold" isn't much of an exaggeration, either.
The Māori have used mānuka medicinally for centuries, calling on its remarkable healing properties to treat wounds and burns. But it wasn't until the 1980s that modern science fully understood what, exactly, made the ingredient so powerful, when biochemist Peter Molan discovered its significant levels of NPA — or "non-peroxide activity."
The sticky substance has plenty of other beauty benefits, too: It's a humectant, meaning it draws moisture into the skin. It balances the skin's pH levels, contains collagen-building amino acids and even "inhibits MMP — a group of enzymes that destroy collagen," says Michael Bumgarner, the founder of Cannuka. But all of these properties belong to other types of honey, too.
To recap: All honey is good for your skin. Mānuka honey is so good for your skin that hospitals use it to heal open wounds. Mānuka's efficacy is determined by DHA and MGO content. UMF measures both. Got all that?The Private-Label Companies You Never Realized Were Making Your Favorite Beauty Products'Wild' Skin Care Is an Emerging Trend Seeking to Clarify the Natural Beauty Category
Some crafty New Zealand exporters have found other workarounds, as well. Earlier this year, NZ-based mānuka company Evergreen Life Ltd was "prosecuted by New Zealand Food Safety on 64 charges of alleged adulteration of honey with artificial chemicals," as reported by The Guardian. The brand allegedly spiked its supply with artificial DHA, a substance more commonly found in self-tanners. The Guardian explained, "The more DHA in the honey, the more MGO it will create.
This is hardly a unique situation. Plenty of fancy-sounding skin-care substances are what industry insiders refer to as "claims ingredients" or "fairy dust" — ingredients that look good on a label, but are used in such small quantities that they don't necessarily do anything. "The reality is that [some ingredients are] included in products at small amounts due to how expensive they are," says Perry Romanowski, a cosmetic chemist and founder of The Beauty Brains.
According to paperwork L'Oréal has provided to Fashionista, the brand actually sources its mānuka through Southern Cross Botanicals, based out of Australia; and SCB appears to obtain mānuka from the New Zealand supplier Watson & Sons, which seems to be the only company that employs the MGS rating system.
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