Quote of the day:
offers an ounce of the caviar as a $155 supplement. “They’re not too salty. They’re not bitter. They’re not nutty. It’s almost as good as wild caviar, when it was on the market. I’m talking about the best wild caviar that you could find 20 years ago.”
Holst had never tasted caviar and had rarely been outside the United States. But he flew to Budapest, holding a briefcase filled with $10,000 in cash to convince officials to meet about buying the company. The Hungarian government agreed to $200,000. Holst paid it all in cash. Rebuilding began immediately. “[The previous owner] wasn’t a farmer,” he explains. “Five percent one way or another in the business is the difference between being profitable or bankrupt. You have to pay attention to all of the little things.” That can be as specific as how a female sturgeon is fed: If she gets even slightly too fat, her ovaries won’t produce eggs. Because sturgeon take 4 to 12 years to mature, one misstep can wipe away years of work.
The first tin shipped from China in 2006. Volume increased quickly from there. “We started getting enough inventory that we didn’t have to take the fish in the first ovulation,” Holst says. “If you wait for the second, you get 3% or 4% more caviar. Your profit goes up 30% to 40%. Boom, just like that.” By 2016, Hangzhou had become the largest caviar company in the world, with the next-biggest being a quarter of the size. Last year production rose 40%. It has already increased 30% this year.
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