“The tortillas are buttery but firm, and large enough to build burritos roughly the size of a child’s forearm. It’s possibly not the best burrito in the world... But it’s my platonic ideal”
perennially overlook Nico’s. But it’s my platonic ideal of a burrito, the one to which I’ve grown accustomed, the one that I’ll stand up for when its goodness is challenged. It’s maybe an illogical appetite, but, if you think about it, that’s just another way to describe love.
It’s hard to believe if you’ve been to both places in the past decade, but for a long time Tucson was bigger than Phoenix, which is now America’s fifth-largest city. In 1880, a Southern Pacific train depot brought promise of new commerce and visitors to downtown Tucson, and five years later, “the Old Pueblo,” as quaint locals like to call it, was awarded Arizona’s first university . In 1919, Tucson got one of America’s first municipally owned airports.
As a child, any environment into which you’re placed seems normal, because it’s all you know, until you’re gradually conditioned by life. That can be a good thing — children aren’t born racist or homophobic, for instance — but it can also result in accepting as commonplace things that aren’t common elsewhere, or things that shouldn’t be common anywhere.
Before long, we became chummy with the Nico’s staff. They gave us free food and didn’t hassle us when we filled up our plastic cups for water, which was gratis, with soda, which was not. A few times they even gave us beers, which weren’t on the menu and were presumably part of their own stash. Some friends of mine asked if their band could play an impromptu show at Nico’s, which obliged.
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