Bill Addison reviews Jeong Yuk Jeom, an ambitious Korean BBQ restaurant in Koreatown whose hook is dry-aged meats.
Critic Bill Addison reviews Spoon by H, a Beverly Boulevard cafe made famous by David Chang for its Korean soups and fried rice.The brisket proved decent; everything else after it was far more gratifying. Short rib was an easy-to-pound-down expression of supple chew and meaty intensity; the unadorned version, with nothing distracting from the smoke and char and beefiness, proved the most satisfying.and the one we were most encouraged to use, plain salt.
I wish Jeong Yuk Jeom wasn’t quite so tame with its dry-aging methods: The steaks, for their stated 60 days of maturation, were still surprisingly clammy before they’re cooked; only when I was chomping forthrightly on the fat after grilling did any of the telltale funk register on my taste buds. Otherwise the meat delivered lushness but the flavor was mild. The $49 dry-aged prime rib-eye is probably the way to go if you’re curious.
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