At the SGV's restaurant of the moment, it's all about the beef noodle soup. Review by BillAddison.
A right-place-right-moment spirit animates Yang’s Kitchen. The fast-casual, counter-service operation, which opened in August, could go barely noticed on a stretch of downtown Alhambra already crammed with restaurants: A Korean barbecue joint, a beer pub, a sushi bar, a cigar lounge and a diner that slings burgers, omelets and burritos all stand steps away.for this newcomer — above all for the beef noodle soup.
Yang is 29 years old. He said he’s been thinking about opening a restaurant since he met his girlfriend, Maggie Ho, general manager and co-owner of Yang’s Kitchen, a dozen years ago when they were both attending nearby San Marino High School. After college Yang cooked for Bryant Ng at the Spice Table in Little Tokyo, absorbing Ng’s fluidity with cultures and cuisines; when Spice Table closed, the couple went on to work at Ng’s Cassia in Santa Monica.
Cold sesame noodles have the familiar slip and slide, dressed with cucumbers, pickled carrots and peanuts for varying degrees of crunch that keep each forkful compelling. The optional and very California additions of sliced chicken breast and avocado give the dish more heft, as do smart, easy-to-like sides of miso-marinated cucumbers and roasted root vegetables.
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