Deep in the Himalayas, one of the world’s most isolated inhabited regions is easier to access now
in September, just before snowstorms start disrupting travel, when I entered the western Himalayan region of Zanskar in a sputtering jeep. I was in the back seat with two Indian tourists, while our guide, Rajeshwar Kyarpa, sat beside our Tibetan driver, Stanzin Thinley, as he followed the narrow, newly paved road that snakes up to the approximately 16,700-foot-high Shingo La Pass.
Our route was marked by green metal road signs with various warnings such as “Keep your nerves in curves” and “After drinking whiskey, driving is dangerous.” Another announced we had reached the last possible point to call our loved ones because most phone plans don’t function in Zanskar. A few minutes later, my international T-Mobile service died.
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