Jose Andrés is unfazed by the gamble of opening a high-theater chain restaurant in Midtown: “I don’t open restaurants. I tell stories, and no two are alike.”
Since the first Bazaar opened in the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills in 2008, the restaurant has been marked by a sui generis
whimsy. Foams! Cones! Cotton candy! That plays well in L.A., Las Vegas, Miami, and, perhaps, even in Andrés’s hometown of Washington, D.C., where he recently opened a triumphant Bazaar in what was once the Trump hotel. But in New York, where the prevalent aesthetic is easy luxury; in midtown, where; and in the Ritz-Carlton, where few New Yorkers dare tread, a high-theater chain restaurant is a big gamble. Andrés is unfazed: “I don’t open restaurants,” he said.
“Rice is one commonality we are exploring on the menu. Socarrat refers to the crispy rice stuck to the bottom of the pan. It always seemed like the best part to me. Originally this was going to be a miso-tinged unagi dish, a reference to a Valencian eel stew called all i pebre, but the flavors were conflicting. Instead, we are using shima aji . As soon as the socarrat comes out of the fire, we slice some raw fish on top. The rice is hot enough to warm — but not cook — the fish.
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