We Tried the Lab-Grown Chicken at José Andrés's Restaurant

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We Tried the Lab-Grown Chicken at José Andrés's Restaurant
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Does it...taste like chicken?

Andrés joined the board of Good Meat two years ago after trying its chicken nuggets and buying into its future-of-food mission—“a first for the history of humanity,” he calls it in a statement. The company touts that its poultry is “made without tearing down a forest or taking a life,” but China Chilcano is already stirring up some controversy by serving it.

China Chilcano marinates the chicken in a spicy Peruvian anticucho sauce for an hour , skewers it, and grills over Japanese charcoal until charred. It’s served simply with someFinally, I get to try it. My first impression: It’s more like a cooked firm tofu with a bit of a springy texture. Maybe I could be convinced it was regular chicken if I wasn’t paying such close attention, but it still feels more like a wannabe.

“We’re not done until it’s almost impossible to differentiate between conventional chicken and cultivated chicken,” Park says. “There’s a lot of work still to do.”

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