The designer proves that you can make a stunning collection while designing responsibly.
is well known for his vibrant, colorful and patterned dresses — and while the brand's Spring 2023 collection sticks to that tradition, it also introduces some exciting new elements. , Lee Krasner and Judit Reigl — women who all happened to be overshadowed by their male counterparts, and who explored elements of chance and spontaneity in their paintings, inviting viewers to detect patterns within abstract forms.
As in previous collections, florals are a recurring motif: Matilija poppies, snapdragons, hydrangeas and ranunculus form the building blocks for "The reason I really love prints is because I think it can tell a story really directly" Cohen tells Fashionista. This is apparent on a knit maxi with rainbow stripes that seem to be "melting," on a bustier-and-ball-skirt set with painterly florals, and on a multicolored silk dress with acid-drip polka dots.
Another big focus for spring is construction. "The shapes are evolving... You have the dramatic skirts, but the shapes are very strong," Cohen says. The designer certainly knows his way around a pretty dress, creating interesting points of tension with pleats and release points. Even boxier pantsuits retail the silhouette of a flowing dress, connecting it back to the DNA of the brand.
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