A sommelier opens up about the shady business practices that are behind the rise of watery, terrible rosé.
TO: Victoria James, Cote Korean Steakhouse...I wanted to see if you were around next week to try some wines and see if there is any opportunity for our brands in Cote. It would be my pleasure to put together a proposal for you that includes funding for the location…
Do you see what’s happening here? If not, it’s okay. The world of wines in restaurants is not a very public one. This dude is slyly offering me the possibility to get paid to place his company’s wines on our restaurant wine list. It should be the other way around: I pay the winery for cases of wines I can’t wait to share with diners. But when it comes to, sneaky deals like this have become par for the course as the wine becomes more and more popular.
As a sommelier, I know I am spoiled, but when I see big-brand pink swill on otherwise nice restaurant menus, I get furious. You might know which brands I am talking about, the ones that sponsor huge parties in the Hamptons. They masquerade as luxury goods, with fun bottle shapes and cutesy names, but are simply bulk wines.When I say “bulk,” I mean rosé that might be made from rotten or low-quality grapes, underripe fruit, or red wine by-products.
Somewhere along the way a rosé company might realize your restaurant is popular or has some buzz, particularly around the wine program. They might stop by, drop off a business card, send an email, and hint that they’d make it worth your while to add their wine to the list. A lot of these deals span the gray area of ethics, from direct cash incentives to trips, dinners, sporting game tickets, complimentary product, etc. Anything to get an edge.
As a sommelier and buyer, I have always leaned toward grower wines . Ask your sommelier or retailer for grower rosé that speaks of a sense of place and tradition, an honest wine.such as Kermit Lynch , Louis/Dressner Selections, Neal Rosenthal, Grand Cru Selections, and Michael Skurnik—to name a few. A common misconception is that grower wines are not on more menus because they’re so expensive. Not so! In many cases, a good grower rosé can be found for under $20 retail.
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