L.A. is home to a new kind of tasting menu: less pretentious, more casual, cuisines that span the globe and chefs hungry for innovation.
One of the best tasting menus in Los Angeles is served on a folding table, in a dark alley next to a dumpster. It’s where Justin Pichetrungsi hosts his omakase dinners, behind Anajak Thai, his family’s Sherman Oaks restaurant. It is the meal I recommend most often to anyone looking for something truly spectacular.
“Being in the alley, it’s kind of a nice metaphor because Thai food is seen so much as street food, but I’m trying to do a tasting menu on a white table cloth so you have the contrast of all these plates and this tiny delicate food presented in a dumpster alley,” he said. “There really is a certain level of scrappiness.”
Cold coconut soup with Maine Scallops and sea beans fried in lard with shrimp chili oil from an omakase menu at Anajak Thai. Carrasco took reservations for two seatings a night for anywhere from two to 20-plus people. He cooked a $40, five-course meal, all the while servicing his regulars who stopped by for tacos.
“I will not say I brought my tacos to the next level because I don’t know what that is, but I brought Mexican food in L.A. to my level,” he said. “To the next level for me.”Minh Phan says a collaboration dinner with Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama of n/naka, one of the most lauded kaiseki menus in the country, inspired her to open Phenakite, her tasting menu restaurant in Hollywood.
“I went to a restaurant in France, and they didn’t have a menu, it was just what was available, and I really gravitated towards that because it’s minimal waste and pushes creativity,” Ortiz said. “I want to do a menu in a storytelling way.” For Ryan Wong, chef and co-owner of Needle restaurant in Silverlake, a tasting menu was the only way to stay open during the fall. After offering siu yeh, a series of skewers and snacks, as a once-every-other-week pop-up in the summer of 2020, he decided to transition the restaurant to a $98 siu yeh tasting menu in September after staffing issues.
At the time of this writing, Wong had transitioned the restaurant to takeout and patio dining only, putting the siu yeh menu on pause, but there is a possibility he’ll bring it back in the future depending on staffing and a host of other factors tied to the pandemic. When January 2022 reservations for Pasta Bar were released on Dec. 1, 2021, Lee said they sold out in an hour. Reservations for Scratch Bar and Sushi Bar are just as difficult to obtain. Lee believes at around $150 to $190 a seat, it’s a more approachable entry point to a meal that offers Wagyu, truffles, foie gras, caviar and first-class service.“You always hear, ‘Oh you must have ordered wrong,’” he said. “If you don’t let them order, they can’t order wrong.
“I think it’s because they didn’t want to take a risk because some are intimidated and others just want to know what’s good and they don’t want to walk out ... missing something,” Donghyuk added.
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