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. No fewer than 13 pasta houses, trattorias, delis, and pizza shops—some several decades old—are within a three-quarter-mile radius of the genre’s latest arrival,. But there’s nothing remotely like this Rome-inspired newcomer from the folks behind Bloomingdale’s beloved Red Hen and the Navy Yard and Shaw pizzerias All-Purpose. Chef Mike Friedman’s menu—which has a leisurely number of snacks, plus housemade pastas and a few shareable entrées—doesn’t crib any dishes from the Red Hen.
Friedman, who grew up in New Jersey, has long been obsessed with both Italian and Jewish cultures and cuisines, which, he notes, often sit side by side. “In New York, the Lower East Side is sandwiched against Little Italy. What are the two things you need to eat when you visit? A slice of” A plate of artichokes is one answer. Braised in white wine, lemon juice, and anchovy until tender, they’re punched up with breadcrumbs and fresh mint.The kitchen makes most of its pastas in-house.
I have a friend who always asks the same thing at the end of dinner: “What was your dish of the day?” Here, I’d hand my blue ribbon to a pile of lamb ribs rubbed in spices that mimic what you’ll find in porchetta , then smoked, roasted, and crisped up in their rendered fat. They’re glazed in a sticky sauce conjured from wildflower honey and vinegar, equal parts acidic and sweet, and served with fermented fennel and pickled fennel stalks.
The whimsical, homey desserts are the work of Anne Specker, the pastry talent who spent years at Kinship and Métier in Shaw. There’s a terrific almond panna cotta with oranges and candied kumquats, and a less endearing, cloyingly sweet apple cake. In my book, the way to go is her Amalfi lemon float, a soda-fountain dream with vanilla gelato, lemon granita, kiwi, and a fizzy juniper-scented soda. The perfect refresher after a Roman-style feast.
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