'With a Jean Paul Gaultier collection, Lotta Volkova aims for shock, awe, and eccentricity.' Read steffyotka's full review on the capsule collection:
to thank for styling all this—she was the holy Lola that opened Vetements that season too—and for keeping strangeness and the unexpected at fashion’s fore., a British TV series hosted by Jean Paul Gaultier and Antoine de Caunes in the 1990s. “What really struck me was this extreme eccentricity, the uncompromising vision, and celebration of and passion for culture, art, and music,” she said over Zoom.
Today she launches her first collaboration with fashion’s onetime enfant terrible, a capsule collection of pieces resurrected from the JPG archive. The cone bra and dress return in ruched rose velvet, as does a nude trompe l’oeil dress first designed circa 1984 in jacquard and now remade in a stretchy and affordable jersey.
Setting Volkova’s capsule collection apart from other archive re-issues is, well, the Lotta Volkova–ness of it all. Her strength as a stylist is not transliteration but transmorphing—she aims just left of center, and brilliantly so. Although, yes, she is returning to much imitated JPG ideas, she somehow misses the obvious, and she captures Gaultier’s spirit of insouciance without offering seam-for-seam replicas.
Among her new additions to the Gaultier canon are a bondage suit, cut out at the bosom and buttocks, to reveal everything. There is also a kinky babydoll dress with pouf sleeves and opera gloves, worn in the campaign with a veil. Though the veil is just for the shoot, chances are shoppers will be clamoring for the total look. Another must-have is the dog-ready, eight-breasted cone bra corset Volkova created for her standard poodle Dimitri and his dog bride-to-be.
As for Volkova’s next shocking act, she’s smartly staying mum. “What excites me about fashion right now is kind of what excites me about fashion always: Its ability to constantly change and for something really unexpected to become, suddenly, so desirable.”
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