Wilder, the glamorous Rittenhouse newcomer, has room for improvement

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Wilder, the glamorous Rittenhouse newcomer, has room for improvement
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Wilder has an ambitious menu and vision, with a range of items — raw bar, wood-fired pizzas, house-extruded pastas, chilaquiles, dry-aged steaks, fresh-spun ice cream — that CraigLaBan notes demands a range of skills in the kitchen.

, as well as a sumptuous foie gras mousse topped with a ruby mirror of sour cherry gelée garnished with mustard seeds and cocoa nibs. It’s delicious, but also worth ordering if only to pluck brioche toast off a platter elevated by brass duck feet.

That worked especially well for pies with lighter toppings, like the Rosa, a minimalist special that shined with bright tomato sauce touched with garlic and basil , or the Spring Fever with shaved zucchini and blossom petals radiating between sun-dried tomato bursts and milky dabs of fresh chèvre. Sloppy execution, though, dimmed the Sweet & Spicy meat pie, whose shiny crust was slicked with grease.

The dinner entrees were solid, but also less adventurous — a quality dry-aged strip steak over brandied peppercorn sauce; a juicy grilled swordfish dabbed with romesco, and a delicious pork chop Milanesa over tonnato sauce that delivered trattoria cutlet comfort. The plump octopus was overshadowed by too much charred eggplant puree and would have been better as a smaller app than a main dish.

For dessert, there were Truitt’s sugar-dusted bomboloni, buttermilk panna cotta and caramel stracciatella ice cream to choose from. But where was “Infance”? That cotton candy cloud served over a plate of mignardises had been an early Wilder signature and nod to a dish Truitt made during his time in New York.

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