Nothing takes the wind out of my sails like a mandated, self-satisfied six-hour marinade. Thankfully, I know the truth about this technique.
To be a home cook is to be in a constant state of exasperation. Mincing garlic is a pain, so is blitzing a soup, ladleful by ladleful, in a blender, and nobody on earth enjoys peeling carrots. But honestly, when I search for a new recipe, nothing—Yes, the method is low-impact and impossible to botch—you combine a cut of meat with a frothy meld of flavors and leave them to mingle in the refrigerator—but the end result, and the onerous time commitment, has been forever dubious to me.
However, Souza notes that some of the basic fixtures that come to mind when we think about a marinade—garlic, paprika, dried oregano, and so on—are made up of flavor molecules that dissolve intomuch more easily than they dissolve into water. But a chicken thigh, or a pork shoulder, or any other hunk of animal protein, does not contain nearly the same fat content as, say, a saucepan sizzling with brown butter. Furthermore, the fat that is present in those cuts of meat is solid, not liquid.
That isn’t necessarily a problem. Seasoned protein tastes good, even if it’s only slathered on the exterior. “You get a ton of surface area on every bite,” Souza said. For what it’s worth, Cook’s Illustrated typically prints recipes that call for a marination process that lasts between 30 minutes and an hour.
My mom is a great cook, and I cannot wait for the next time she plates a delicious coq au vin in front of me, even if the sprigs of thyme weren’t doing what she thought they were doing. In my kitchen, however, I will continue to pioneer my own tradition: preparing an impeccably seasoned rack of chicken thighs roughly 45 minutes before I intend to serve
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