Richmond, VA is where it's at.
Portland . Nashville. Charleston. Portland . There’s no argument that some of the most exciting cooking happening in this country is going on outside the big cities, in small and midsize towns where the rent isn’t so damn high. Though Richmond, VA, is better known for its history than its tasting menus, on a visit to the city’s food festival, Fire, Flour & Fork, last fall, I realized that the scene has recently taken off at full tilt.
—After years of will-they-won’t-theys, the trio of Patrick Phelan, Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and Andrew Manning opened their dream restaurant:. The sophistication of their brick- and-mortar—awash in a serene and serious palette of grays, blues, and black—is pretty much the opposite of the scrappy vibe of their pop-ups. The intense thoughtfulness behind each dish comes through via a wedge of butterkin squash with hazelnut paste or a precious plate of mignardises .
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