What makes for good olive oil? What should it taste like? How do you shop for it if you can’t taste it beforehand? These questions and more, answered.
, founded by agriculture school buddies Rob McGavin and Paul Riordan in 1998, that’s captured 30% of the Australian olive oil market. In addition to loving flat whites and having funny accents, Australians are big fans of olive oil; the average Australian, compared to just under a liter per person in the US. Boundary Bend’s success in Australia has translated to winning dozens of international olive oil competitions and a $360 million valuation.
In a stark departure from the big commodity brands, Cobram Estate is completely vertically integrated: the company grows olives , picks them, mills them into oil, then bottles and ships them, all on-site. Most of California’s olive oil companies work the same way, but thanks to Boundary Bend’s vast coffers, Cobram has been able to, scale up production, and invest in pricey equipment.
With an orchard that size, scheduling picking and milling becomes a massive challenge of logistics and engineering, Englehardt explains. That’s because every olive is milled the same day it’s picked, usually within just a few hours, so it can be blended into larger batches for a consistently fresh product. Olives left off the tree too long undergo an enzymatic process called hydrolysis, where triglycerides in the presence of water break down into diglycerides and free fatty acids.
But the clock ticks on. For one, the newly freed oil needs to rest so any residual water and solids can separate out. But even once you’ve removed any hydrolysis-inducing moisture, fresh oil in the presence of air will keep oxidizing. So after Ravetti’s team takes initial readings of the fresh oil and tastes it to see which batches to blend it with, it gets piped into steel tanks for cold storage, which are flushed with nitrogen to halt further air exposure.
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