View the complete Spring 2020 menswear collection by Undercover.
What lurks in the dark? What sinister instincts lie dormant, waiting to arise? Where does the capacity for masculine moral villainy begin? If you are a man, you know.
I loved this on-the-face-of-it dull Undercover offering because it asked questions of the masculine state we now jazz-hand away with fake rhetoric. It was a collection that interrogated a man’s private knowledge of his worst but most vital instincts—his knowledge of himself—expressed while dressed as a devil, beautifully.
More significant than the Nosferatu silhouettes at the front, or the plentiful Cindy Sherman reproductions at the back, were the spider’s web pleating in the middle of this collection. Trapped by our own urges, it reflected the Dylan Thomas quote on the invitation: “I hold a beast, an angel, and a madman in me.”
To his credit, designer Jun Takahashi said post-show that these violent urges were something he recognized in himself. His rejection of the easy tropes of streetwear for the polished affectation of sartorialism spoke volumes. The clothes were just souvenirs, really, but important ones. Relics of an age of masculine devilment that should no longer hold terror or sway. Move on, move up.
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