On your next trip to France, go off the beaten path.
“Relais & Châteaux would not be what it is today without the Troisgros family,” the association’s president Philippe Gombert told me later, explaining that Pierre, Michel, and César have all been active members. “Pierre was the true founder of Relais & Châteaux cuisine.”
When we arrived, Michel’s wife Marie-Pierre gave me a tour starting from the entrance of the restaurant, explaining, “We wanted to show the house from the back—which hoteliers never do—and show all the people who work and what goes into making a meal, so we start by the wine cellar, the staff quarters, and then pass by the reception.”Arriving by night, as most dinner guests do, feels especially magical.
The wonders continue in the 15-room inn, which is connected to the restaurant by a hallway. Exhausted from our journey, we relaxed in the lounge with a cheese plate served on a porcelain dish made to look like marble, and glasses of red wine. On the mantle, dozens of glass vases and candle holders glowed softly. Our room was done up in a sleek modern design—a manifestation of the family’s forward-thinking approach to hospitality.
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