This restaurant’s chewy chilled noodles are about more than staying cool.
Cold noodles are a pillar of Korean cuisine, enjoyed year-round but especially when the mercury rises. Classic iterations of these chilled, sometimes brothy, noodles include naengmyeon, a tangle of buckwheat noodles in a slushy beef broth; and kongguksu, wheat noodles in cold soy milk soup. As a heatwave rolled through New York City last week, a particular version of these noodles haunted my thoughts: a chili lobster ramyun fromin Manhattan.
Oiji Mi’s lobster ramyun comprises four main parts: fresh, springy ramyun; creamy sesame sauce; carefully poached lobster; bright green garniture. As with most memorable dishes, this one is greater than the sum of its parts. The ramyun noodles retain their chewy, inviting texture, the lobster parts are cooked separately to prevent overcooking and preserve the meat’s sweetness, and the garnish provides welcome freshness to an otherwise rich dish.
You may be lured in by the extravagance of lobster, but it quickly becomes clear that the real star of the show is the sesame sauce. It’s buoyed by the savory scallion oil and blitzed to a creamy texture that clings to each noodle. The cool, crunchy cucumber offers a welcome respite. It’s unlike any noodle dish I’ve had, but it’s familiar all the same.
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