This Charming Slice of the Tuscan Coast Is Old-School Italy’s Best-Kept Secret

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This Charming Slice of the Tuscan Coast Is Old-School Italy’s Best-Kept Secret
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Seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure in Italy? Look no further than Forte dei Marmi and its enchanting coastal neighbors. travel Italy

“Those of us who love it, we love it more for the traditional, old-style things that have always been here,” says Sara Maestrelli, whose family owns one hotel here and will soon open another, and spent much of her childhood in the area. “We are such nostalgics.”

I meet Jennifer Schwartz, a Florence-based Travel Master and co-owner of Authentic Explorations, for lunch at one of thoseor beach clubs. She brings her young daughter, who’s as keen as I once was to spend an afternoon digging around in the sands. “If you like authenticity, the Italian way of life in summer——come here,” she says. “It’s about relaxing and recharging—you’re not supposed to be doing stuff.

“There’s a whole hierarchy, the closer you get to the mare,” she says. “The beach club is like the local equivalent to the golf course, because it’s where a lot of deals are done over the summer.” A necklace of communities sit strung together by the water, each of them distinct from the last. Brassy, ballsy Viareggio is the busiest, a Belle Epoque town that’s become best known as the world’s superyacht-building hub; Marina di Pietrasanta is the arty, offbeat alternative, the oceanfront counterpart to Pietrasanta, a short drive inland up into the Apuan hills and which has long attracted creatives from around the country .

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