This All-Star Recipe pick is kind of a project—and that's kind of the point.
—but I understand my friend’s impulses. Sometimes you want a recipe that will keep you in the kitchen all day; sometimes you want dinner to take hours, not minutes. A 20-minute pasta will get dinner on the table, but it won’t exactly take you out of the rote rhythms of your life the way making croissants will.came out earlier this year, it made me want to do the kind of cooking I could get lost in. I was drawn to the eggplant-and-feta galette, as well as the from-scratch falafel.
Then I planned a party. And at that party I did precisely what you’re never supposed to do: I cooked recipes I’d never made before. The galette and the falafel were pushed to another time . Instead, I found a recipe that was a project, but a manageable one:The recipe is a love letter to olives. A lemony, garlicky olive paste gets smeared on each piece of white fish before it is wrapped in chard leaves, and those bright-green packages are simmered in a sauce with even more lemon and olives.
As much as I love olives, it was the chard that drew me to the dish. I loved the idea of serving tidy packages in edible gift wrap to each person at the table. And more than that, I looked forward to the slightly-time-consuming process of doing the wrapping, of getting into a rhythm and concentrating on my hands and the task in front of me, leaving no space in my usually-spastic brain for anything else.
But as I got going, it seemed like the recipe wasn’t going to work. I had picked the biggest chard I could find at the market, but few of the leaves were perfect—they were torn, or had holes, or seemed too skimpy. As the recipe promised, though, it all turned out fine—the leaves were big enough, and wrapping 16 pieces of fish provided the quiet, focused, meditative cooking I’d been looking for.
Cooking can’t always be that way. I know that. But now that this recipe is in my repertoire, it can be that way a little more often.
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