In everything from the pockets to the tags.
While cotton itself is very recyclable and biodegradable, once you add synthetic dyes and finishes, it’s unfit for the compost pile. Cotton recyclers have to cut off and dispose of the entire top and side seams of a pair of jeans so it doesn’t contaminate the chemical recycling process or jam up the mechanical recycling machines. Forget about recycling a pair of jeans made with 21% polyester ––Compared to the rest of the fashion industry, denim is relatively fossil-fuel-free.
Cotton thread was replaced with polyester thread, which was stronger and wouldn’t break when run through new, faster industrial sewing machines. Brands started pre-destroying jeans, giving them acid wash, tumbling them with pumice stones, abrading them with sandblasting, bleaching them, taking Dremels to them for holes — and polyester thread could hold the seams together in those processes. Brands started adding stretch, and customers no longer had to lie down on the floor to button their flies.
Because of the way we produce and care for our jeans, even these new Plant-Based 501s still have a bit of polyester thread in areas that need extra reinforcement. But there’s another way to tell this story, and that is that capitalism got ahold of what was once a craft. “It was really because of productivity and margins; it had nothing to do with durability or any other reason,” Aldighieri said. Synthetics are cheaper, and according to Adighieri, allow for less skilled design. “If you're making what has become a disposable product, you don't really need to over-engineer it.
, said big fashion brands are talking about and testing out ways to get petroleum out of their products. “A lot of them have commitments in their [corporate social responsibility] targets to a certain percentage of recycled content or to preferred fibers,” she said.
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