Costume designers Lou Eyrich and Rudy Mance reveal how they styled actress Noma Dumezweni as the sartorially grand investigator Theodora Birch in Netflix’s mystery series.
In a dark diner, Theodora makes her first impression in a vintage ’70s Lanvin trench over a black turtleneck and trousers, with a graphic-print head wrap. “She’s covered up, undercover,” adds Eyrich. Theodora shares her colorful origin story — or spins a yarn — involving a jazz career, rehab stint and addiction to true-crime documentaries.
Later, Theodora’s brown gloves, with exposed stitching and white piping, help point the finger toward Dean as The Watcher, as she dramatically reveals handwriting analysis evidence to his suspecting wife, Nora . But the refined accessories were more a style choice than Easter eggs — or, red herrings.
“She is a little more theatrical and grand, but without being completely over-the-top,” says Mance. He and Eyrich — christened “Lou-dy” by the crew — walked a balance with Theodora’s jewel tones and dynamic square and circle graphics to counter the striver Brannock family’s “new preppy” palette of lush neutrals. “She can’t be so far removed that Dean wouldn’t trust her,” says Mance.
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