Facing a bustling Windward Avenue just off the Venice Boardwalk, Belles Beach House spills across a dining room with fanning palms, wicker and bamboo accents and carved ceramic faces that serve as light fixtures onto a netted patio. Your experience here depends entirely on when you visit. Weekend brunch is breezy and bright, with egg dishes, toasts and granola bowls, plus invigorating cocktails like the Sun Kissed with your choice of spirit, fresh carrot, orange, turmeric, lemon and black pepper. From 4 to 6 p.m. Monday through Thursday, golden hour brings $10 cocktails and wines, $6 beers and an assortment of discounted bites to pair with the relaxed vibes; dog lovers will want to stop by on Thursday, when guests are encouraged to bring in their pups for 'yappy hour.' The Hawaiian-leaning menu is a great choice for a dinner date, spanning bao buns, crispy rock shrimp, decked-out sushi rolls, salads and poke bowls and large plates such as Hawaiian-style rib-eye and huli huli chicken. Post-dinner, a DJ usually takes over the turntables and a spinning disco ball attracts guests to the dance floor as the restaurant takes on a rowdier atmosphere. A lengthy cocktail list with classic, shaken, stirred, nonalcoholic and frozen options, in addition to shareable pitchers, helps keep the party going.
A selection of cocktails from North Hollywood’s Tiki No bar, including a Singapore Sling, left, Chief Lapu Lapu, Zombie and Blue Hawaiian.Ever since Don the Beachcomber debuted in Hollywood in the 1930s, tiki has ingrained itself in American bar culture. Nearly a century later, we still delight in drinking a Mai Tai from an elaborately carved mug beneath a palapa, all without stepping foot on a plane. No wonder tiki bars are enjoying a contemporary revival.
With the recent tiki resurgence comes increased scrutiny of its not-so-sunny aspects, mainly the fact that the original establishments didn’t always approach certain cultures with sensitivity. Often, they created an escapist fantasy that appropriated Hawaiian or Polynesian iconography and aesthetics while sidestepping the uncomfortable realities of colonialism.
But as the tiki bar found its footing in California, it acquired an eclectic flavor all its own — a cultural mashup that reflected the region’s diversity, creativity and ingenuity.During the height of tiki culture in the ’60s, commercial air travel became increasingly accessible and more Americans were able to visit the faraway places that inspired their local tiki haunts. With that came a deeper understanding of tiki’s roots.
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