From Alexander McQueen to Louis Vuitton, these were the top 11 collections of Paris Fashion Week.
The Paris collections played out against the most dramatic of world events. England’s Supreme Court found Boris Johnson’s suspension of Parliament unlawful by a unanimous vote, and across the ocean, the U.S. Congress initiated impeachment proceedings against President Trump. In between shows, we scrolled wildly through our latest news feeds to stay connected with the events as they were happening.
Take Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia, who recreated the European Parliament on a soundstage on the outskirts of Paris, a highway ride lined with a refugee tent city away from the Belle Époque palaces of the Premier Arrondissement, and stocked it with the warring parties. On one side: masters of the universe in severe tailoring, campaign dresses, and couture lifted from Cristóbal, who in turn lifted it from Velásquez and Goya.
Rick Owens took on the U.S. border crisis via a collection that celebrated his Mexican roots with his sui generis dressmaking and the most sensational headgear anywhere. John Galliano was up to something similar at Maison Margiela, making an implicit criticism of Boris Johnson’s shenanigans with his reworkings of the uniforms of real-people war heroes. It’s hard to resist a guy in uniform—we’re talking to you,.
The kindest, most beautiful gesture of the season belongs to Dries Van Noten, who invited Christian Lacroix to collaborate. Business-wise, it was brilliant—a collection’s worth of collector’s items—but it’s the sentiment we’ll remember. With a long month of shows ending, we’ll take that good energy with us back out into the real world.
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