Tracing the forgotten eras of Los Angeles, with visits to a turn-of-the-20th-century chateau, a silent movie palace and a retro rail car
Most visitors might smirk at the idea of ‘old’ in a city obsessed with reinvention. But L.A.’s romanticized past is in vogue, with the newest hot spots housed in reborn relics. Here, the hotels, classic restaurants, rooftop bars and gilded theaters that are buzzing againTHE MOST ECCENTRIC historical trail in Los Angeles County starts on a quiet suburban road above Pasadena.
A 3-mile steep climb, past chaparral and wildflowers, leads to the ruined foundations of Echo Mountain House, a 70-room resort opened in 1894, complete with a Swiss-style chalet and astronomical observatory. On a recent Sunday morning, I clamored over the site’s cracked stone steps and found rusting train tracks and giant cogs in the underbrush, remains of a cable railway that once brought Gilded Age holidaymakers in top hats and bustle dresses to these heights.
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