Learn the secrets of Krimsey's plant-based food in a new cookbook
The sounds of the zydeco band didn’t so much drift from the corner of the North Hollywood strip mall as stampede out of it. The good times began to roll at Krimsey’s Cajun Kitchen in early 2017, with live music, raucous annual Mardi Gras parties, po’ boys, beads, jambalaya, craft nights, hush puppies, fried okra and other “Looziana” fare, all of it vegan. But three years later, those good times came to an end.
“I think with a lot of cooking that’s based in some sort of old tradition or culture, we always have some sort of spice base or flavor profile that isn’t meat-based. It’s what you put on the meat or marinate the meat in, and that’s super true for Cajun food,” she said. “When people think about Cajun food, a lot of times the ‘holy trinity’ comes up: celery, [bell] pepper and onion. That’s in almost every single classic or Cajun-Creole dish — and Cajun spice.
She immediately realized there were no all-plant-based Cajun restaurants nearby, even in Baton Rouge, which meant the petroleum engineer would need to pick up some cooking skill. Her home meals started humbly: Some nights, it meant microwaving a russet potato and topping it with frozen broccoli. Eventually, she began to incorporate familiar spices and draw from Creole inspiration to lay the foundation for what would become Krimsey’s years later, nearly 2,000 miles away.
“I came to L.A. thinking I would probably like to do something in the vegan scene but had no idea it would be food-specific,” Lilleth said. “I don’t know what I imagined but I didn’t imagine owning my own restaurant.” She opened Krimsey’s Cajun Kitchen in February 2017 for what she believed was an underserved vegan community. She already had a customer base built through pop-ups, but in the first few months, Lilleth was worried about reaching new audiences. Then animal-advocacy nonprofit Mercy for Animals featured the restaurant in a video on social media, and Krimsey’s exploded almost overnight. Lilleth had to hire more people and, eventually, move from one space in the strip mall to the larger corner spot.
In Lilleth’s green gumbo, Cajun cuisine’s “holy trinity” forms the base of the verdant stew to build flavor.
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