‘The Menu’ review: From ‘yes, chef!’ to a horrified ‘oh no!,’ with Ralph Fiennes in the kitchen

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‘The Menu’ review: From ‘yes, chef!’ to a horrified ‘oh no!,’ with Ralph Fiennes in the kitchen
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Movie review: Twelve people, having paid $1,250 apiece, travel to a 12-acre private island where a famously secluded fine-dining establishment awaits.

A fearsomely exacting chef confronts a guest at his secluded island establishment in"The Menu."

I’m reviewing the food-snobbery-will-kill-you comedy “The Menu,” never having eaten at, well — name the Michelin-starred restaurant and I haven’t eaten there. Some day. When that cost-of-living raise finally arrives. But satire, even wobbly satire, doesn’t require firsthand knowledge of a subject. Pretentious foodies are like pretentious anybodys, with cultural critics high among them: They can’t hear themselves speak, not really, because they probably wouldn’t speak that way if they could. Insider language is a reliable satirical target. It stimulates the ear to hear words unthinkable a few years ago: “mouthfeel,” for one.

In the beginning, we follow the twitchy foodie Tyler and his conspicuously unpretentious and skeptical last-minute date, Margot . Once they reach the island, the cool glare of host Elsa sets a tone of ingrained disdain.Shortly before dusk, the various diners — annoying bro-men of shady business practices; a glance-averting older couple; a fearsome food critic — take their assigned seats.

Fiennes and the best of his comrades are a different story: They’re witty in ways complementing the apparent mystery scenario, aka “And Then There Were None to Pick Up the Check.” There’s not an actor alive who can do more with a doleful, threatening pause before a line than Fiennes.

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