Bananas are the latest unexpected dining trend
, green-ish bananas are often utilized in stews and curries in lieu of plantains, and in the Philippines, banana ketchup is a mainstay — in the Bay Area, which had seen a steady surge of Filipino eateries in recent years, it can be spotted, made in-house, at the relatively new Understory in Oakland, served alongside pork lumpia.
“These ingredients are part of our culture and heritage,” says Abaca chef Francis Ang, who previously ran the successful pop-up Pinoy Heritage, when referring to the banana condiments at his restaurant. When the time came to plan the Abaca menu, Ang didn’t hesitate to include them. “Every time someone who grew up or traveled to the Philippines has a pork skewer glazed with this sweet and tangy banana barbecue sauce, it immediately hits nostalgia,” he says.
For the Michelin-starred Californios chef Val Cantu, the idea of grilling a banana and making it savory-sweet was appealing even back in the days of the old location. At the old Californios, there was a banana-filled tamal topped with caviar “well before the whole banana craze started.
That sounds delightful, isn’t it? And also, pretty timely. Perhaps the savory banana movement is simply a metaphor for the way we deal with things now — taking what we got and what we know and making it exciting. “I think bananas are super accessible, affordable, and something you can find everyday in your grocery store,” Liberman says. “It’s an ingredient people can play around with in terms of different preparations and evoke new flavors in dishes.
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