The two wine terms are separated by more than just a single letter (via punch_drink)
, pioneered by the Northern Rhône winemaker Daniel Sage in the early 2010s. For Oungoulian and Burt, it’s been dubbed “reverse,” a sort of inverse of the saignée method of making rosé, wherein red grape juice macerates with the skins for a short period of time to develop color, and is then siphoned off to ferment alone.
“There’s different ways to achieve a light wine,” Oungoulian said. “You can also do a shorter maceration, but the thought is we wanted to do kind of a full length of maceration because you get a little bit more deep and interesting tannin extraction and mouthfeel. By co-fermenting rosé juice, it’s almost like you’re turning the dial down. So you have that depth, but it’s not quite as loud.”
Such musings hold a level of consideration that almost seems unbefitting of a wine meant to be enjoyed simply. But simple ain’t easy. A juicy wine is, in a sense, a reconstruction of an ideal not unlike a tasting menu built around core sensory memories. It takes the aromatic potential of grapes to reanimate a sense of naiveté, both in the fruit and in the drinker.
Perhaps it’s silly to quibble about pop nomenclature when there was a time in which wine and juice were truly synonymous. The juice from freshly pressed grapes is known as must, which derives from “,” what the ancient Romans called young wine: sweet, unfermented grape juice that was kept in such a state by being poured into resin-coated amphorae and buried in cold, wet sand for up to months—protorefrigeration.
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