There were once 17,000 varieties of apples in North America. This history of apples digs into why so many have gone extinct, leaving us with a whole lot of flavorless Red Delicious.
Has there ever been a fruit as celebrated as the apple? Heaven, wrote Emily Dickinson, is an apple that’s just out of reach. “Goddesses are fabled to have contended for it, dragons were set to watch it, and heroes were employed to pluck it,” noted Henry David Thoreau. “Surely,” he declared, “the apple is the noblest of fruits.” If you’re fortunate to live near a farmers market with a generous selection of heirloom apples, you might agree with both Dickinson and her fellow Bay Stater.
Tales of activists destroying orchards are probably the stuff of legend, but with their insistence that “lips that touch liquor shall not touch ours,” Temperance advocates did few favors for apple farmers. After the Civil War, the shape of American agriculture also began to change. Mechanization and the expansion of railroads led to a shift away from subsistence farming and toward commercialization. “When you are growing for market, you can’t have 16,000 varieties,” says Bunker.
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