From 2000 to 2016 the use of polyester by the garment industry rose from 8.3m tonnes to 21m tonnes annually
LOOKING good can be bad for the planet. Massive amounts of energy, water and other resources are needed to make clothes. From the pesticides poured on cotton fields to the washes in which denim is dunked, making 1kg of fabric generates 23kg of greenhouse gases on average, reckons McKinsey, a consultancy. Because consumers keep almost every type of apparel only half as long as they did 15 years ago, these inputs go to waste faster than ever before.
Global clothing production doubled between 2000 and 2014 as garment firms’ operations became more efficient, their production cycles sped up and shoppers got better bargains. Global clothing sales came to $1.8trn in 2015, according to Greenpeace, up from $1trn in 2002. Fast-fashion brands such as Zara, owned by Spain’s Inditex, now offer more than 20 lines a year; Sweden’s H&M manages up to 16. Making do and mending is out of fashion.
Most big fashion firms do not bother to measure environmental impacts. But a few, stung by the industry’s previous scandals, are taking pre-emptive action. H&M has eliminated toxic per- and polyfluorinated chemicals from its lines . It is also the company which buys the most “better cotton”—cotton grown under a scheme to eliminate the nastiest pesticides and encourage strict water management. Nike, an American sportswear giant, knits certain shoe lines, rather than piecing them together.
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