The comforting continuity of comida corrida.
The three-course format of comida corrida allows the customer to choose the direction of the meal within a standardized rubric. The meal starts with soup, a sopa aguada with two types on offer: always chicken consommé, bolstered by a cube or two of Knorr seasoning, with chunks of carrot and chayote waiting at the bottom. The second soup is a wildcard, often a crema, or a puree of zucchini or corn that may or may not be enriched with cream, or sometimes a lentil or fava bean soup.
, an 11-year-old fonda on a busy Colonia Roma corner told me. “I’d estimate we can produce around 100 different guisados.” The guisos shift and change due to the cooks’ whims, the availability of product, and, most importantly, cost. “You can’t use avocado right now—we just can’t make it work” Avila said, “it’s 70 pesos a kilo.”
Like other urban creatures, I found the fondas I liked the best. I was drawn to the corner spot whose rice walloped with garlic and the slightly cheaper menu across the street with a chile de arbol salsa laced with ground peanuts. If Doña Isabel’s sopa de haba was on the menu, made from dried yellow beans with a magnetic funk that could be smelled down the street, I would sit, WhatsApping photos of my meals to my Mexican cook comrades in Brooklyn.
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