There are plenty more signs that, if nothing else, it’s going to be a very tasty year.
of eating at this set-course ramen tasting counter in San Francisco, so of course I planned a visit when I was in town on a recent trip. I was extremely excited, but admittedly could not figure out what a set-course ramen dinner would look like. Was I going to pound six consecutive bowls of noodles and soup? That sounded good, but overwhelming.
What really got me was a dish that had no broth. A small swirl of bouncy, tightly wound noodles were slicked with salty shoyu tare and adorned with a lobe of uni, a soy-cured egg yolk, and cured salmon roe. I could’ve stared at the dish for hours, but the instructions from the kitchen were clear: “Stir it all up and make it ugly.” As the uni melted into the noodles and egg yolk glossed every strand, there was nothing ugly about it.
; an appetizer where you’re encouraged to wrap a thinly sliced, fatty piece of prosciutto around a fluffy, airy fried doughnut smeared with persimmon jam; a tiny clam “pizza” on top of a chewy English muffin–like bread. However, nothing rocked my world more than a dessert simply called affogato. Pastry whiz Stephanie Prida does not bring out the classic Italian dessert in which espresso is poured over ice cream.
I cook a lot of vegetarian dishes at home, so when I dine out I tend to switch it up and order meat or fish. But after a little convincing from the hostess at Leland, the yu choy landed on my table. The crunchy vegetable was served over a slather of creamy black sesame tahini and topped with tongue-tickling Calabrian chili vinaigrette. I made sure to ask for a hunk of sourdough to sop up the last saucy bits on the plate.
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