Where to find grilled eels on iron skewers, spaghetti with colatura and bottarga, hand-pulled durum noodles in mutton broth, and wine must-spiked cookies in Sardinia
Sardinia has long attracted beach-obsessed Italians, who stick mainly to the emerald waters of the highly developed northern coast. But given the magnified tourist scene on the mainland and Sicily, Sardinia is also appealing to more adventurous travelers looking for some breathing room.
Sardinia is proudly carnivorous, with a strong culture of roasted suckling pig, goat, and lamb, as well as wild game, especially wild boar, which you’ll see strapped to SUV hoods after successful hunts in the fall. In a place in which sheep outnumber people more than two-to-one, the cheese scene is vast and the sheer range of pecorino varieties, some unique to particular villages, boggles the mind.
Note: Much of Sardinia’s dining culture is seasonal, so be sure to confirm that places are open before you turn up. The island is also home to many dialects, which means you will often encounter different words for the same food as you move from village to village; the names of the dishes below reflect how they appear on each venue’s menu.
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