Taste Test: Heaven Hill’s New Ultra-Aged Bourbon Gives Pappy a Run for Its Money

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Taste Test: Heaven Hill’s New Ultra-Aged Bourbon Gives Pappy a Run for Its Money
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Our whiskey critic tries the new Heaven Hill Heritage Collection 17 Year Old Barrel Proof Bourbon.

78 percent corn, 10 percent rye, and 12 percent malted barley

. The label says the whiskey is 17 years old, but that’s indicative of the youngest whiskey in the bottle, which also includes 19 and 20-year-old bourbon .Which leads me to why fans of older Pappy bourbons should be on alert. Of course, this is not a wheated bourbon and it’s not made at, which are significant differences between the two whiskeys. Also, Heaven Hill Heritage Collection has pretty limited availability nationwide, although demand for it will likely pale in comparison with Pappy.

The nose is classic bourbon on steroids, with rich notes of vanilla, caramel and butterscotch greeting you before you take a sip. And when that time comes, the first thing that should strike you is that this is just not overly tannic in the way you might expect. Yes, there’s a bit of char and astringency on the palate, but it’s subtle and dominated by notes of plum, almond, pecan, tobacco and even some dark summer berries.

, Evan Williams, or Bottled in Bond. These older barrels were selected from several warehouses, mostly from lower floors which makes sense given the cooler temperatures there and the whiskey’s elevated age. Heaven Hill Heritage Collection will be an annual release, and the bar has been set quite high with this initial expression. So maybe it’s time to transition your hunt for unicorn bottles to this newest kid on the high-priced bottle block.

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