Couture goes coquette
Simone Rocha just announced her next big job on Instagram in the most Simone Rocha way: with a fit of white florals and tangled blue ribbon, photographed alongside a handwritten note signed by Jean Paul Gaultier that read:That’s right: Simone Rocha will be the next guest couturier for Jean Paul Gaultier.
Seeing how each of Jean Paul Gaultier’s guest couturiers interpret the designer’s half-century-long career has become the delight of couture week, with hyper-online high-fashion fans waiting with bated breath to mock up side-by-side comparisons of the new and the old. Rocha’s show will follow the one by Dossena, which drew from Gaultier’s ’90s designs—specifically the “Adam & Eve” couples’ looks from 1991, which married the train of a woman’s dress to the tail of a man’s jacket.
As with Gaultier, Rocha’s designs have been described as fantasies you can wear. But instead of looking to the opulent world of the one percent, Rocha and Gaultier have always looked more to the real young punks of the street. They’ve also both created worlds in which gender is muddled and femininity is power, where references to bondage are somehow both sexy and sweet.
The idea of the two collaborating feels obvious, in a way, and some online commenters have been wondering why it hadn’t happened sooner. Still, the announcement this morning felt like the best kind of Fashion Month bombshell. Perhaps one commenter on Rocha’s Instagram said it best: “I haven’t been this happy in forever. Looking forward to the show!”Previously, she was the style writer at
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