SF Walking Tour: Eccentric California’s 19th century Emperor

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SF Walking Tour: Eccentric California’s 19th century Emperor
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California has long drawn colorful characters, but 19th century San Francisco especially so. A historic walking tour with Emperor Norton reveals all.

as “extraordinarily large and fat, and so sweet that no pullet eats more pleasantly.”

A former nightclub, the Hippodrome, features a bas-relief of a nearly nude man whose private parts appear scrubbed out. “They censored it at some point. Let’s just say he was aroused.” Beneath the building is an arc-shaped brick tunnel that Amster has personally visited. It was used for smuggling – “human trafficking, drugs, any sort of contraband they didn’t want people to see would be brought off the ships at night.

“Luckily, they did not take the most valuable thing in their collection – one of my original imperial treasury bonds, the only one available for the public to view on a regular basis,” he says. Too bad for them: “The last one to come up for auction was around four years ago, and it went for $12,000.”

“There was such a demand for interesting and strange history that one of our reference librarians in our California History Section put this research guide together,” says Jessica Knox-Jensen, State Library Services bureau chief. “I wouldn’t be surprised if we’re the only library with something like this…. Maybe California is just the right melting pot for that sort of material.”

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