Seoul Fashion Week Faces Growing Pains

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Seoul Fashion Week Faces Growing Pains
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Seoul Fashion Week expanded in terms of venue but presented the shortest lineup in its history with just 21 brands.

South Korean supermodel Yoon Young Bae and models walk the finale of Maison Nica's fall 2024 runway show during Seoul Fashion Week.The smaller crowd size this season may be attributed to the substantially colder, subzero temperatures resulting from shifting the date .

“I’ve been visiting stores and galleries. I like the area. I can see the trends, and this really adds to the fashion week experience,” said Anh. “K-pop and fashion in K-pop are really blowing up around the world. Fashion is important to artistry, for artists to stand out onstage,” said Brian of the R&B duo Fly to the Sky. “The popularity of K-pop and events like really help introduce a lot of Korean designers to the world.”

Lee Chung Chung, CEO and creative director of Lie, was among those who shared Desner’s disappointment about the short lineup. “Buyers who appreciate high-end labels like Lie will want to check out similar looks, or those that appreciate edgy Korean streetwear will look for more casual lines from other brands. This kind of buyer demand is inevitably associated with volume,” said Lee, emphasizing that more brands must be featured.

This season’s opening featured Julycolumn, which was a surprise as it operates more like a crafts workshop. The chunky, handmade cable-knit dresses and oversize jackets tailored from recycled materials were certainly retro-chic. But the designs are virtually produced as one-of-a-kind pieces in tiny capsule collections, and the brand’s vision does not seem to necessarily align with SFW’s aim to emphasize big overseas sales.

While SFW was overall smaller, featured designers were loud in presenting their messages. Lie presented its signature architectural tailoring in a wide range of looks, from business-core to athleisure. Inspired by the 1990 Paris Olympics, the “All-lympics” collection was presented by a diverse range of models, including a quadriplegic dance sport professional.Ul:kin also celebrated human rights, collaborating with the local government to support refugees of the Korean War.

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