Review: Seek out Sri Lankan hoppers and fish curry at Apey Kade in Tarzana.
A few weeks ago I was drinking tea at a shop in Alhambra, and a man seated near me mentioned he was from Sri Lanka. I asked him if there were any Sri Lankan restaurants he particularly loved around Los Angeles.
“Only one,” he said, plunking his cup down with emphasis. “Apey Kade in Tarzana. That is where the cooking tastes like home to me.” Three days later I’m at Apey Kade in front of a plate of string hoppers — thin rice flour noodles steamed into flat, pearly nests. Garnishes surround them:, a fluffy coconut condiment dyed peachy orange from red chiles;, a salad of finely chopped greens with coconut, onion and lemon; and coconut chutney dusky with chile powder. This all arrives on a turquoise tray. The colors alone spike my dopamine levels.
Hashim and Rodrigo are natives of Colombo, Sri Lanka’s port-city capital along the western curve of the teardrop-shaped island. They grew up in the city’s small Muslim community and serve halal meat at Apey Kade; the name translates from the Tamil language as “our store.” Their menu reflects the scope of Sri Lanka’s many intermingled cultures and the myriad impacts of colonization.
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