Sarah Thankam Mathews Eats Lychees on the Beach

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Sarah Thankam Mathews Eats Lychees on the Beach
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.smathewss spent a “personally apocalyptic week” meditating on friendship and illness, as well as considering the joy of giving someone their very first oyster. Read her GrubStreetDiet

“You would never guess that a mere few years ago I was a pencil-skirt-wearing Young Professional per-my-last-emailing my way through the world.” Illustration: Adam Mazur Next week, Sarah Thankam Mathews will publish her debut novel, All This Could Be Different. It follows Sneha, a young Indian immigrant building her life in Milwaukee, as she starts a soul-crushing corporate job while navigating friendship and dating — before things devolve into chaos.

It’s wildly hot. In an hour I have a finalist interview for this program where you learn how to design gardens and take care of city trees and other plant uncle shit. I applied because I want to learn new things, I find it soothing to use my hands, and I long to spend more of my life not staring at glowing misery rectangles. I run some errands and stop impulsively at Chestnut, the Hasidic grocery on Myrtle.

Chinantla is an underrated Bed-Stuy gem lodged at the back of a bodega. I get the cemitas al pastor, a total flavor bomb of sliced avocado, notably spicy pork, and cheese on a sesame brioche roll. Meghna gets bistec tacos and offers me a bite. We share a watermelon agua fresca so large it is served in one of those 32-ounce translucent plastic deli containers. Transcendent, overall.

Work, email landlord lease renewal, call various people, brood mildly about the fragility of life and good health. P and I have a cozy talk. I attempt to make coconut-water Popsicles. More work. Friends check in and offer food or medicine delivery. There’s no need, I say after thanking them, since there’s food in the fridge and I am able to traipse around. Lunch is yesterday’s rice and dal and some okra that I dry-fry with red onions and a smidge of green chile.

The oysters are in fact very good, delicate, creamy-sweet, redolent of ocean. We down them with cloudy ocher-colored glasses of cold Trebbiano. I protest that I would never even dream of attempting to come for MFK Fisher’s ass. One of the great all-time food writers–food poets, I’d argue. Imagine writing this: “The oyster leads a dreadful but exciting life.

Sometimes light hurts when you’re very ill. The blinds only do so much, and so I tin-foil the sickroom windows to make it a little darker in the morning.P is, finally, moving toward better. This illness has been horrible. We give praise. I got into the urban-gardening program I interviewed for. I am excited; I want to get better at growing things, learn to take care of city trees, and design balcony gardens.

Akshay, who blessedly lives quite literally 300 feet away from me, responds to a Mayday text I send when I realize I am out of a crucial item, and drops it off. P sleeps post-dinner. I had ambitions to eat at Nepali Bhanchha Ghar in Jackson Heights with my friend A, a Queens dweller, but A is going to see Mitski later, and so we meet in Manhattan instead.

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