The man, the meme, has reached another level.
Salt Bae is leaving London on November 7 to open his latest restaurant in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. By traveling around the world and capturing the attention of local diners and reporters, Salt Bae’s hype seems to be self-perpetuating. With each new city, the meme machine rolls on. Those who dine at Nusr-Et branches across the globe film endless videos in the hope that it says something about them; those who mock the videos on social media or in newspapers think it says something about them, too.
It’s a rivalry between the salt of the earth and the elite: A neat, almost cartoonish class story which helps people define who they are by who they aren’t. It’s a culture war, yes, but one mercilessly free of any -isms. Ultimately, it doesn’t matter who spent what when—it’s just the latest iteration of an argument that’s been going on for hundreds of years. There’s an innocence to getting angry about expensive steaks; there’s a simplicity to the story that’s rare in our current internet age.
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