.OfficialRodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavy on the transportive power of fashion shows–and what to expect from the return to NYFW.
. The horror films that designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy grew up with had bloomed into a collection of menacing spider knits that cocooned over models’ bodies. There was blood red, earthen brown, and escapist shades of blue, all stitched into a vision held up by teetering Christian Louboutin platforms adorned with golden spikes. When Abbey Lee Kershaw closed the show in a Gothic gown of wafting chiffon, it was cemented in stone: Kate and Laura Mulleavy were it.
“We both grew up being obsessed with fashion and the idea of a fashion show in New York City. All the things associated with that are really inspiring to us. Having that experience and getting to do the show here—it’s pretty thrilling,” says Kate of their return to NYFW.The Mulleavys return to New York at a time when the industry is feeling pretty down about itself and its abilities to stage fashion spectacles on par with London, Milan, and Paris fashion weeks.
“That show was actually the catalyst for Kate and me to think about how we can get more out of a show for our audience and how we can make it more exciting,” Laura picks up. “Your audience has very little time because they’re going to more and more shows. How can you convey emotion within 10 minutes and make it more exciting and commanding? I feel like the change came when we started hopping around to different locations.”“I didn’t realize that would be important for us.
In the time since that Parisian couture show, the pair have held a NYFW show in the pouring rain—something they would have to contend with again today if their venue was not indoors—and photographed two magical lookbooks starring their friends and muses. “I felt like when we did our show in the rain in New York, it was one of those moments when you realize why you’re doing a fashion show—and the power of it,” says Kate.
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