Helen Rosner reviews Angie Mar’s restaurant Le B., where the chef returns to her downtown roots, leaning into vivacity and drama.
Still, it wouldn’t be a Mar joint if the restaurant didn’t have some essential element of hauteur; Le B. may be her bid for a more downtown vibe, but that doesn’t mean that things skew to the proletarian. Tables are set with silver. A mahogany cheese cart rolls around the room, and the formidably curated wine list reads like a French vocabulary lesson.
’s vivacity and drama, which includes a soundtrack of hip-hop and bossa nova. The dessert menu, too, seems curiously out of synch. What’s available is quite lovely: a basket of tender, fresh-baked madeleines; butter-drenched crêpes Suzette theatrically flambéed tableside; a selection of excellent ice creams, including an obscenely silky chocolate sorbet that conjures memories of licking frosting straight from the bowl.
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