Butter costs twice as much. Aluminum cans in are short supply. Brisket is through the roof. We spoke to a local baker, brewer and pitmaster about how they're managing to cover costs and not alienate customers.
Bisous Bisous chef and owner Andrea Meyer is juggling the logistics of packaging shortages and increased costs.The kitchen at Bisous Bisous, a small French patisserie in Uptown, is a carefully planned orchestra of people, butter, flour and sugar. And clipboards. Clipboards are everywhere. They hang on tacks across the walls, lined up like toy soldiers, one after the other, taking and dispensing orders from the many spreadsheets clipped to them.
The past two years probably haven’t been great for people who make trays for office parties, and they certainly haven’t been kind to small restaurants and bakeries. Labor shortages have led to wage increases. Shipping quagmires have snarled deliveries and inventories, driving up prices. Waves of COVID variants have slowed production."Transitory" inflation is parked on our shores and isn’t moving.
“It’s gotta be double digits,” Meyer says when asked about the overall increase in doing business now compared to before the pandemic. “We’re not talking about a mild increase. Just the basics — butter, sugar, eggs, flour, stuff that we use massively fast — it’s gone between 35 and 60% higher if not double the price.”
Now, Ramirez starts most mornings around 2 a.m. He just sleeps at his trailer on mornings he has to cook. His first task is to heat his pit. He stacks post oak in the offset smoker. Around 4 a.m., he starts loading up briskets, placing about a dozen slabs of meat at different spots inside the pit. Meyer says she’s paying higher wages for everyone across the board. “After the pandemic, it wasn’t even a question," she says."You have to pay at least $15 an hour now except for possibly an intern, but even then.”
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