How the cult designer got his start in fashion
exclusively available at the retailer. Though he appears preternaturally youthful, Hardy is anything but green. In the 1990s he served as creative director of shoes at Hermès and built up the brand’s footwear offerings from scratch, designing the perpetually best-sellingbefore going on to found his own label in 1999. Speaking quickly and animatedly in his accent-laced Franglais he opines on the state of fashion today, what’s behind our collective nostalgia and where the industry is headed.
This morning I went to preview for hiking boots, this afternoon I went to a lunch for a sneaker brand and now I’m here talking to you, a high-end shoe designer. What do you think it says about the world that so many types of shoes are popular now, that nothing is off-limits? I think it’s definitely a sign of modernity. Nothing is forbidden. It’s funny, fashion is supposed to be avant-garde. It used to be a field of research, but not anymore. Our period is not avant-garde at all. We are totally in a nostalgic, melancholia, retro moment. Nobody would dare to propose something that never existed before.We are too insecure. In the 1960s or 70s, we used to believe in the future, progress, that things are going to be better.
A long time ago I had the fantasy to be an architect, but I was so bad at mathematics. Actually I wasn’t bad, I was lazy and didn’t want to pay attention, so I didn’t do architecture. But now, I think, ‘would I have the passion to do a project for three years and then wait 10 years to build it?’ I’m not sure that would fulfill my character. I think what I love in fashion is it was dynamic. It’s a flow and that is very interesting, creatively.I did not plan that one day I would have a shoe brand.
The landscape has changed a lot. A few decades ago shoes were accessories, that’s it. At Hermes, there was no shoe collection proper. There were some styles that went from one season to another, but no specific creative statement. Then some fashion brands, Prada for example, decided to put as much energy into accessories as they put into clothes. That shifted the landscape. The look of the shoe suddenly became a point of access to an aesthetic. All ready-to-wear brands became accessory brands..
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