Pearl bakery serves one of S.A.’s best grilled cheese sandwiches

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Pearl bakery serves one of S.A.’s best grilled cheese sandwiches
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Bakery Lorraine at the Pearl has one of the best grilled cheese sandwiches in San Antonio

Bakery Lorraine puts a French-pastry spin on the onion-breath grandeur of an everything bagel with an everything croissant, then piles that croissant with smoked salmon, dill cream cheese and pickled red onions . Texturally, the yielding, flaky croissant proved to be a better fit for good smoked salmon than the hard-knock bite of a bagel. It’s less messy, more polite and still delivers that trifecta of carbs, cream and smoked seafood silk.

A smoked salmon croissant sandwich includes cream cheese and pickled red onions on an everything-spiced croissant at Bakery Lorraine at the Pearl.But Bakery Lorraine let me down with a chicken salad sandwich on a croissant . I liked the sultry tarragon aromatics of the chunky chicken salad, but there wasn’t enough of the “salad” part, the mayo that binds the best chicken salads, and it fell away in chunks with every bite of a rigid croissant that shattered rather than flaked.

The croque madame sandwich isn’t quite a unicorn in San Antonio, but it’s rare enough that any sighting’s an event. Bakery Lorraine’s rendition was built on good sourdough, toasted and filled with ham and cheese, then topped with a perfectly poached egg and a luxury hotel robe of mornay sauce, a lush bechamel base with a cheesy French accent

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