Floating tables, falling petals and handcraft are what got the creative motors going of the latest designers to throw their hats in the Paris Fashion Week for fall 2023.
“Clothes don’t come from nowhere,” she said, naming the heritage of conceptual Belgian fashion and its reflection on each garment’s history, structure and usage as her primary creative motivation.
“I don’t want to change everything every six months. I’d rather be like a furniture designer, adding [new items] as needed,” she said. She describes her namesake brand as telling a feminist backstory to craft, particularly as “Irish [ones] are female-dominated and was Ireland’s biggest industry during the [19th-century] famine,” explained the designer, pointing out their role in providing families an income and perhaps even passage to the U.S. at the time.
Now in her fourth collection for fall 2023, Pierce once more delves into her homeland’s difficult relationship with femininity, in particular “the fear of women and lengths [taken] to silence them.” Falling leaves and petals made her very emotional, touching her deeply with “a sense of all things will pass yet all things will return,” said Hu, who found “something poetic about nature’s never-ending cycle, anticipating the beginning, the beauty in seeing the purity of it.”
The pandemic prompted her to return to Shanghai, where she opened a studio-atelier and began delving deeper into the production and commercial sides of her budding business. “I feel lucky in that sense. Instead of blindly expanding the business, I took this time to build the foundation of the brand,” she said.
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